The Wheelbarrow Way to Chillagoe

Journal entries Wednesday, 6th April to Friday, 8th April

Wheelbarrow Way icon

Wednesday-- The road from Mareeba to Chillagoe is known as the Wheelbarrow Way, so called after the gold mining pioneers who trudged this way carrying all their worldly goods in a wheelbarrow in search of work or to make their fortune. Very few found either!

After leaving Dimbulah and the orchards of mangoes, lychees, and sugarcane, the landscape changes dramatically. Huge boulders and rock formations set the scene for our visit to the sandstone  cave area of Chillagoe.

Tours are conducted here by NP rangers into three caves and there are areas that you can explore on self-guided tours. We booked two cave tours - Royal Arch at 1pm today and Trezkin at 11am tomorrow.

      

 
  

  

There is more to Chillagoe than the caves though, and we spent the morning exploring the copper mining history of this western town.

Mining area Chillagoe smelter

Chillagoe in 1900's

Smelter tower in Chillagoe

Copper mining in Chillagoe

 The area was originally mined for copper and the remains of the old smelter works can be viewed from an interpretive walk on the outskirts of the town. The brick smelter tower can be seen as you enter the town. In the early 1900s the smelter employed over 1000 people. Although there is a lot of history to explore in and around Chillagoe, the main attractions now are the wonderful caves that can be explored on guided tours.

Easter over and A Change of Direction

Journal entries from Tuesday, 29th March to Tuesday, 5th April

Walk alongside Rifle Creek

After some deep and meaningful discussions over a wine or two last night we decided to leave exploring the Tip for another time when the NPs in that area are accessible --  perhaps October next year would be a better time. So our travels will now take us to Mareeba and west along the 'Wheelbarrow Way' to Chillagoe and on to Kurumba and Normanton. We planned to break the journey by staying overnight at Dimbulah, 45kms west of Mareeba. Didn't make it that far -- we chose to camp two nights at Rifle Creek free campground at Mt Malloy.

Dave - fellow camper at Rifle Creek

Our new 'companion' - Theodore

Nice little place. Walking distance to the pub and a couple of interesting retailers -- an antique shop and a gem and gift gallery. Of course, the OWO needed a drink after our walk, so Mrs OWO took the opportunity to browse the stores. One can usually find something special in little stores like these and it was my good fortune to find a very special bear called Theodore for our new little grandson due in July. He is a special edition bear made in 2003 to celebrate 100 years of friendship bears. So this will be the beginning of an adventure for Theodore.
Leaving Rifle Creek we took a detour into the Mareeba Wetlands. The Sarus Cranes and Gouldian finches can be seen in this region and it was only a short detour.
But it seems that Murphy has decided to join us again (remember our "Friendly" encounter with Murphy and his mates in WA?)!!!

Welcome to Mareeba Wetlands!

Mareeba Wetlands - Birders Paradise!!

Beautiful Gouldian Finch

Parked at the Wetlands the OWO noticed oil leaking on the rear wheel. Looks like we need to locate a mechanic. So on the advice of Greg at the Wetlands reception, we went looking for Kevin the mechanic in Mareeba. Let me tell you here that Mareeba is the largest town on the Atherton Tablelands and we weren't too confident about locating Kevin! But we did. Two hours later we now find we will be delayed at least two days whilst Kevin gets the necessary parts delivered from Cairns overnight. So off to Dimbulah (remember this is 45kms west of Mareeba), to park 'Ada' for three nights. Oh well, better we found the problem here rather than out in the middle of nowhere!,!,

1st April (Friday) - So now we have started a new month. Yes, it's April Fools Day, and what a day. The OWO took the vehicle back into Kevin and expected to return around lunchtime. Not so. The repairs were completed around 3pm - because some 'fool' forgot to start on it until the OWO went to collect it at 11am -- it was in the workshop at 9am!  Back at the park around 4pm we elected to stay another night so we could explore the area a little. Thought about Steve's mum today as she was buried 12 months ago today. Still in our hearts Eileen.

Theodore with Granite Gorge map

2nd April (Saturday) - Back into Mareeba. This time for a couple of reasons - a visit to Granite Gorge just a little SW of the town, then stock up on supplies, and to purchase a TV screen/DVD player for 'Ada' that the OWO had seen yesterday. Thoroughly enjoyed wandering around the Gorge, although very hot in 36 degrees.

Pretty Rock Wallaby at Granite Gorge

Yay - made it across the creek!!

You are kidding - right??

Granite Gorge swimming area

Follow the yellow dots!

Pretty coloured dragonfly

Balancing rock formation

Brumbies on the Track

Great camping sign!

Montalbion 1886-1922

Montalbion Pioneer Cemetery

Outdoor 'bog' at Irvinebank

Wildflowers at Emu Creek

Irvinebank pub

3rd April (Sunday) - today was a Telstra data-free day, but not for us as our mobile wi fi device decided to stop working -----  b@&$(;y Murphy.

Emu Creek camping area - beautiful spot.

Forgetting Telstra frustration we ventured out to explore the area. We chose the Petford-Irvinebank road - dirt of course. This is a fascinating area with abandoned mines, overgrown pioneer  cemeteries, town ruins, and the remains of the Cobb & Co station at Montford. There was a lovely peaceful stop beside Emu Creek and we stopped several times to investigate various sites that we found. A very pleasant day exploring.


4th April (Monday) -- the battle with Telstra continues! After more than 90 minutes on my mobile to Telstra yesterday the OWO decided it needed to be a face-to-face confrontation if the problem was going to be rectified before we travelled further west. Good luck with that one OWO!!  So it was into Atherton - the closest Telstra outlet - just a mere 128kms away!  What a complete waste of a day and fuel. After three hours in their store we were told they couldn't help us nor could they sell us another device as they had no stock!!!!!  So back to Mareeba and into Leading Edge Electronics for a new device. "Sorry none in stock - can order for you and maybe arrive here tomorrow mid morning or after lunch -- possibly". Another night at Dimbulah-- go away 'Murphy', we were having such a great time without you.

Whilst parked in the Main Street in Mareeba we somehow managed to get a 'free' wi fi signal from a local cafe. Only to receive a very sad message from our daughter, Heidi. A very tiny Finley James Rayward-Morgan was born sleeping at 12.07am weighing just 15ozs, less than 500 grams. Such a heartbreaking time for our daughter - having experienced a similar loss when I was just 21years old, I know how empty and heartbroken you feel afterwards. Thinking of you my love.

5th April (Tuesday) - Another trip to Mareeba (how many kms now?)  and after another three hour delay, still no mobile device.  However, we spent the time effectively with a visit to the Mareeba Heritage Center. It is a really interesting display with a very informative display about the local tobacco industry as well as information about the local pioneer miners and a local mine disaster that claimed 72 lives. Still no sign of the device at 2pm, so we headed back to Dimbulah to hitch up 'Ada', and with sadness heavy in my heart for our daughter, we hit the road again - travelling west to explore Chillagoe and the Caves.

Will be visiting ALL these places

Nothing changes in the country!

What a story that was!!!

They were the Good Ol' Days

Coast to Tablelands

Saturday, 12th March -- On the road again
Just a short journey today to stay with the lovely Pat at Toomulla Beach, just 40kms north of Townsville.
An easy drive along the Bruce Highway with a couple of lovely small towns between Bowen and Townsville.  There was a lot of water alongside the highway and most of the creeks were in full flow after the heavy rains in this area over the last two weeks. This is an area that produces mainly mangoes, bananas, and sugar cane and there are acres and acres of both along the highway. There are also coffee and tea plantations here.

Coffee plantation

The two main towns we pass through are Home Hill and Ayr. The former is a very small community and this may be reflected in the way the streets are named. There are no street names as such, but each street is individually numbered. I guess with only 20 odd streets giving them a number rather than a name makes it easy to find your way home from the pub!

Crossing the mighty Burdekin river at Ayr

After crossing the mighty Burdekin river we took the by-pass around the town centre of Ayr. Taking this route one can clearly see the influence of Italian immigrants in this region - with even further evidence in the local cemetery where there are magnificent Italian mausoleums marking the resting places of many of those hard working and brave men and women who settled this area so far from their homelands. Many homes in this small town and surrounding region reflect an Italianate style building with arches and courtyards.

Driving northwards the highway now bypasses the main central area of Townsville and we were amazed at the growth and ongoing development we saw on the outskirts of the city. It is 30 years since we lived in this area and it is certainly no longer the small coastal town it was back then!

Hostess Pat at Toomulla

Rain clouds at Toomulla

Driftwood at Toomulla

Arriving at Toomulla around lunch time we found it still very hot and extremely humid even though the rain had recently passed through. After our unplanned extended stay at 'Dylisglen' and the stay at Bowen, our time with the lovely Pat was to be very short with only an overnight stop. So we made the most of our time and after a delicious lunch we walked down to the beach before going exploring in 'Big Red'.  As 'Big Red' has only seating for two our hostess sat in the "tray" giving the OWO directions along some great tracks to a wonderful beach and river area.

Beach fun in Big Red

Muddy tracks to beach

Preparing Big Red

Pat's favourite river spot

We certainly had a fun time driving along the muddy tracks to the beach. Oh my!! What fun we had driving along the beach with the cool sea breeze blowing through the open vehicle. We spotted some beach stone curlews and sandpipers in the shallow water and passed a couple of other vehicles enjoying the same adventure as we were. On the return trip our hostess guided us to a beautiful riverside spot with a cool swimming hole before travelling back along the muddy track. What a wonderful fun afternoon we had.

Beautiful swimming hole on the river

Sunday, 13th March -- From coast to Tablelands -- Toomulla Beach to Millaa Millaa
Today we must say farewell to our lovely hostess and continue our travels north. After a lovely breakfast our hostess took us on a short tour of the local area. We visited Balgal Beach, Mystic Sands, and Rollingstone. Lots of lovely "free" camping spots but the mozzies were horrendous and drove us back to the car very quickly.
Our farewells said, and a promise to return for a longer stay, we left the humidity of Toomulla and headed for the cooler climes of the Atherton Tablelands.

Our travels today took us through many small coastal towns including Tully (the wettest town in Australia), Ingham, and Cardwell. All these communities were severely ravaged by cyclone Yasi in 2011, particularly Cardwell which is built along the ocean front. It was wonderful to see the work that has been done to restore the Cardwell foreshore after such devastation.

Cyclone Yasi damage

Cardwell foreshore

Cardwell jetty

First settlers cairn in Cardwell

Cardwell history

More history

We enjoyed lunch here and explored the 'new' foreshore before continuing north towards Innisfail, where we left the Bruce Highway and started the long haul up the range to the cooler climes of Millaa Millaa.

Cardwell's symbol was destroyed by Yasi

ANZAC Memorial at Cardwell

Hinchinbrook Island can be seen from Cardwell

MILLAA MILLA --- This 'sleepy' little village is located at the southern end of the Tablelands and is known as the 'village in the mists', and is home to the elusive Lumholtz tree kangaroo. The town is nestled amongst lush, emerald green hills and is surrounded by rich dairy pastures, wonderful rainforests, and magnificent waterfalls. Throw in a few historic mining towns and sumptuous gourmet produce, and these RRs are in for some wonderful hours of exploring during their three days at Millaa Millaa.