Gorgeous Gorges

Daily journal extract --Saturday, 9th April - Monday, 11th April

Saturday - an interesting day -- 

 After leaving our free camp spot early we decided to take the advice of local roadworker, Greg, and chose the route towards Mt Garnet rather than the rougher route to Mt Surprise. A very good decision as this road had been recently graded after wet season wash aways and was very good travelling. It brought us out about 12 kms from Mt Garnet on the Savannah Way.

Creek crossings a-plenty in this region

Travelling west along the bitumen we were surprised to find a coffee stop with a sausage sizzle set up at the gates to a property about 25kms from Mt Surprise. As we drove past the organisers waved and we decided to turn around and support these folk. Another good decision. They were a lovely young couple with three boys, and they were raising funds for the Mt Surprise primary school.  We spent over an hour chatting them about their plans to open a van park on their property in June. It would be a lovely spot to camp and they had some very good ideas to attract campers. They are listed on Wiki Camps, just look for Pinnarendi Station, Mt Garnet.

Einasleigh river

After a really lovely coffee and such a long chat it was time for us to be on our way. On the advice of Nadine and her partner we detoured via The Lynd (stopping for fuel and checking out the smallest bar in Queensland!) before taking the back road towards Einasleigh. It always pays to chat with the locals and follow their advice. This was another great decision.  The countryside once again changed as we crossed several creeks through savannah grasslands on our way to Einasleigh.

Mrs OWO fishing!

We found a wonderful overnight free camp spot right on the river where we saw our first freshwater crocodile, and Mrs OWO caught her first eating-size fish.

Freshwater croc sighting

Riverside camping

Yep - finally caught a decent size fish in the river!

Sunday -- Copperfield Gorge, Einasleigh

"Savannahlander" rail bridge at Einasleigh

Today we travelled a mere 40kms from the river to the sleepy outback town of Einasleigh. Our overnight camp was the Copperfield Van Park -- recommended by Kevin the mechanic who fixed our vehicle in Mareeba. A very interesting park in that it is an adults only camp - no children under 18 years. A novel idea for "grey nomads" travelling through the area.

The sign says it all!

 Our host, Mark, is the brother-in-law of Kevin, and he was a very welcoming host. This is the quiet time of year for this region and Ada was the only van in the park!

A "lonely" Ada at Einasleigh

The park is walking distance to the Copperfield Gorge and "The Pub", the latter being our first port of call, naturally! Being a Sunday, the pub closed at midday but we managed to meet a couple of locals collecting their 'supplies', before we set out to explore the Gorge. There is a lovely collection of miniatures held in the pub, along with some beautiful photographs and information about the local history.

Sunday afternoon in a country town

One of the beautiful miniatures in the Pub

The "Pub" seen from the Gorge

Einasleigh was a thriving town in the 1800s with gold and copper mining in the area, today there is very little here except for "The Pub" and the Gorge -- even the local police station has been closed since 2005 and the nearest police officer is now located in Georgetown. The "Savannahlander" train still stops here (outside "The Pub") on its regular weekly run from Cairns to Georgetown. The line looks a little "rickety" as it runs alongside the main road bridge into Einasleigh.

Police station and stocks!

We spent the afternoon exploring the Gorge. Such beautiful colours in this natural phenomenon which is like an oasis in a dry and dusty land, and a delight for this amateur photographer.

Looking through the Gorge

Exploring the Gorge

Calm waters in the Gorge

Railway and "highway" side by side

 Monday -- Einasleigh- Forsayth- Cobbold Gorge
Moving on from one Gorge to the next our first stop was Forsayth. The route along the way followed alongside the railway line and changed between dirt and bitumen as we traversed the Newcastle Range.

The "Willy"

Willy's Touring Car info

Forsayth has a rich mining history and there is a lovely park in the centre of this outback community next to the railway station, where a number of interesting relics convey the special history of the region. Exploring the park, the OWO was delighted to find an old relic of a "Willy" -- apparently his grandfather drove one of these funny vehicles from Warwick to Darwin many, many years ago!

Our final destination today would be Cobbold Gorge so after a little more exploration around Caschafor Park, and a coffee break at the Goldfields pub (which has been beautifully restored by the new owners and is also the local post office and local grocery store), we continued on our way along another 49kms of dirt road. The road was pretty corrugated in some sections but again our Ada was no problem to tow.

This is rather interesting country covered in sandstone rocks and huge termite mounds and looked very dry after the Savannah grasslands. However, when we arrived at the Gorge campground around 1.30pm, we were immediately impressed with what we found.

The Wheelbarrow Way to Chillagoe

Journal entries Wednesday, 6th April to Friday, 8th April

Wheelbarrow Way icon

Wednesday-- The road from Mareeba to Chillagoe is known as the Wheelbarrow Way, so called after the gold mining pioneers who trudged this way carrying all their worldly goods in a wheelbarrow in search of work or to make their fortune. Very few found either!

After leaving Dimbulah and the orchards of mangoes, lychees, and sugarcane, the landscape changes dramatically. Huge boulders and rock formations set the scene for our visit to the sandstone  cave area of Chillagoe.

Tours are conducted here by NP rangers into three caves and there are areas that you can explore on self-guided tours. We booked two cave tours - Royal Arch at 1pm today and Trezkin at 11am tomorrow.

      

 
  

  

There is more to Chillagoe than the caves though, and we spent the morning exploring the copper mining history of this western town.

Mining area Chillagoe smelter

Chillagoe in 1900's

Smelter tower in Chillagoe

Copper mining in Chillagoe

 The area was originally mined for copper and the remains of the old smelter works can be viewed from an interpretive walk on the outskirts of the town. The brick smelter tower can be seen as you enter the town. In the early 1900s the smelter employed over 1000 people. Although there is a lot of history to explore in and around Chillagoe, the main attractions now are the wonderful caves that can be explored on guided tours.

Easter over and A Change of Direction

Journal entries from Tuesday, 29th March to Tuesday, 5th April

Walk alongside Rifle Creek

After some deep and meaningful discussions over a wine or two last night we decided to leave exploring the Tip for another time when the NPs in that area are accessible --  perhaps October next year would be a better time. So our travels will now take us to Mareeba and west along the 'Wheelbarrow Way' to Chillagoe and on to Kurumba and Normanton. We planned to break the journey by staying overnight at Dimbulah, 45kms west of Mareeba. Didn't make it that far -- we chose to camp two nights at Rifle Creek free campground at Mt Malloy.

Dave - fellow camper at Rifle Creek

Our new 'companion' - Theodore

Nice little place. Walking distance to the pub and a couple of interesting retailers -- an antique shop and a gem and gift gallery. Of course, the OWO needed a drink after our walk, so Mrs OWO took the opportunity to browse the stores. One can usually find something special in little stores like these and it was my good fortune to find a very special bear called Theodore for our new little grandson due in July. He is a special edition bear made in 2003 to celebrate 100 years of friendship bears. So this will be the beginning of an adventure for Theodore.
Leaving Rifle Creek we took a detour into the Mareeba Wetlands. The Sarus Cranes and Gouldian finches can be seen in this region and it was only a short detour.
But it seems that Murphy has decided to join us again (remember our "Friendly" encounter with Murphy and his mates in WA?)!!!

Welcome to Mareeba Wetlands!

Mareeba Wetlands - Birders Paradise!!

Beautiful Gouldian Finch

Parked at the Wetlands the OWO noticed oil leaking on the rear wheel. Looks like we need to locate a mechanic. So on the advice of Greg at the Wetlands reception, we went looking for Kevin the mechanic in Mareeba. Let me tell you here that Mareeba is the largest town on the Atherton Tablelands and we weren't too confident about locating Kevin! But we did. Two hours later we now find we will be delayed at least two days whilst Kevin gets the necessary parts delivered from Cairns overnight. So off to Dimbulah (remember this is 45kms west of Mareeba), to park 'Ada' for three nights. Oh well, better we found the problem here rather than out in the middle of nowhere!,!,

1st April (Friday) - So now we have started a new month. Yes, it's April Fools Day, and what a day. The OWO took the vehicle back into Kevin and expected to return around lunchtime. Not so. The repairs were completed around 3pm - because some 'fool' forgot to start on it until the OWO went to collect it at 11am -- it was in the workshop at 9am!  Back at the park around 4pm we elected to stay another night so we could explore the area a little. Thought about Steve's mum today as she was buried 12 months ago today. Still in our hearts Eileen.

Theodore with Granite Gorge map

2nd April (Saturday) - Back into Mareeba. This time for a couple of reasons - a visit to Granite Gorge just a little SW of the town, then stock up on supplies, and to purchase a TV screen/DVD player for 'Ada' that the OWO had seen yesterday. Thoroughly enjoyed wandering around the Gorge, although very hot in 36 degrees.

Pretty Rock Wallaby at Granite Gorge

Yay - made it across the creek!!

You are kidding - right??

Granite Gorge swimming area

Follow the yellow dots!

Pretty coloured dragonfly

Balancing rock formation

Brumbies on the Track

Great camping sign!

Montalbion 1886-1922

Montalbion Pioneer Cemetery

Outdoor 'bog' at Irvinebank

Wildflowers at Emu Creek

Irvinebank pub

3rd April (Sunday) - today was a Telstra data-free day, but not for us as our mobile wi fi device decided to stop working -----  b@&$(;y Murphy.

Emu Creek camping area - beautiful spot.

Forgetting Telstra frustration we ventured out to explore the area. We chose the Petford-Irvinebank road - dirt of course. This is a fascinating area with abandoned mines, overgrown pioneer  cemeteries, town ruins, and the remains of the Cobb & Co station at Montford. There was a lovely peaceful stop beside Emu Creek and we stopped several times to investigate various sites that we found. A very pleasant day exploring.


4th April (Monday) -- the battle with Telstra continues! After more than 90 minutes on my mobile to Telstra yesterday the OWO decided it needed to be a face-to-face confrontation if the problem was going to be rectified before we travelled further west. Good luck with that one OWO!!  So it was into Atherton - the closest Telstra outlet - just a mere 128kms away!  What a complete waste of a day and fuel. After three hours in their store we were told they couldn't help us nor could they sell us another device as they had no stock!!!!!  So back to Mareeba and into Leading Edge Electronics for a new device. "Sorry none in stock - can order for you and maybe arrive here tomorrow mid morning or after lunch -- possibly". Another night at Dimbulah-- go away 'Murphy', we were having such a great time without you.

Whilst parked in the Main Street in Mareeba we somehow managed to get a 'free' wi fi signal from a local cafe. Only to receive a very sad message from our daughter, Heidi. A very tiny Finley James Rayward-Morgan was born sleeping at 12.07am weighing just 15ozs, less than 500 grams. Such a heartbreaking time for our daughter - having experienced a similar loss when I was just 21years old, I know how empty and heartbroken you feel afterwards. Thinking of you my love.

5th April (Tuesday) - Another trip to Mareeba (how many kms now?)  and after another three hour delay, still no mobile device.  However, we spent the time effectively with a visit to the Mareeba Heritage Center. It is a really interesting display with a very informative display about the local tobacco industry as well as information about the local pioneer miners and a local mine disaster that claimed 72 lives. Still no sign of the device at 2pm, so we headed back to Dimbulah to hitch up 'Ada', and with sadness heavy in my heart for our daughter, we hit the road again - travelling west to explore Chillagoe and the Caves.

Will be visiting ALL these places

Nothing changes in the country!

What a story that was!!!

They were the Good Ol' Days