Back in the Ranges

The OWO seems to be getting a little anxious, and is getting a little "pushy" about the time it is taking to "travel" with you, but we have seen so many beautiful places on this Big Adventure it becomes quite overwhelming and I just want to share it all - the beauty, the remoteness and the solitude of the desert and the ranges; the dramatic cliffs of the coastline; the sparseness of the desert; the flora and fauna; the history and culture of the outback and towns; and the joy of early morning birdsong and clear starry nights in the bush. All this, and much more, we have experienced on this Big Adventure, so I hope you will continue to join us as I continue to give you "snippets " from my daily journal -- even though it may take quite a number of posts to complete our "travels".

Our track from Kimba to Minnipa

SUNDAY, 20 September--- WEDNESDAY, 23 September --- GAWLER RANGES

SUNDAY

Iron Knob iron ore mine

Sunday morning we farewelled Mr B and left the Acacia Ridge Motel. Today we would make our way to the Gawler Ranges NP where we planned to camp for three nights. Travelling comfortably  along the Eyre highway we passed the massive open cut mine area of Iron Knob, from here they transport iron ore to the massive steel works at Whyalla.


Once again we were amazed at how quickly the countryside changed -- from the dry, red rocky hills of iron ore, with very little vegetation, to fields of yellow and green, miles and miles of grain crops in a rich farming area that contrasted so much with the drier more arid areas we had already seen.

Halfway Across Australia

KIMBA -- the little town "halfway across Australia" with the iconic 'Big Galah' sculpture. This was our 'morning tea' stop and we took time to explore a little whilst here. This is the eastern gateway to the Gawler Ranges and is one of South Australia's major grain belts. The first pastoral leases were granted in 1872 and the first crops sown in 1908.

Edward John Eyre and Tracker

On our way out of town we detoured via Whites Knob lookout to discover the fascinating metal sculptures of the explorer Edward John Eyre and his aboriginal tracker.



GAWLER RANGES NP -- it was only 100kms from Kimba to the NP and the route we followed actually passed through pastoral lease land, with a large number of grids, but a very good road until we entered NP land. Here the 'road' became more of a track, with some very corrugated and rocky sections.

Campsites in Gawler Ranges NP

 There are several camping areas in the NP, some very popular, others not so as they are listed as 4WD access only.  Of course, the  OWO decided one of the latter areas would be ideal for us to explore this area, so we headed along the track to the Kolay Hut campground. Definitely a 4WD track. But hey -- this is an 'adventure' right! We finally reached the campground around 2pm, without any mishaps along the way, although I must say that the OWO did look a little whiter than when we started out!

We chose a spot overlooking the creek with lovely views across to Mt Fairview and surrounding hills, with a fire pit close by, and walking distance to the drop loo. Inside the hut we discovered a 'bathroom' with a 'donkey' shower.

Donkey shower heater

For those of you not familiar with this term, it's a metal drum filled with water which is heated up by lighting a wood fire underneath it, which is then pumped by hand into the shower or bathtub. Fascinating!

MONDAY

Can you spot the two faced rock?

Very windy all day. One of the coldest days since leaving home. Today we trekked up to the Kolay Mirica falls. Only a trickle to be seen as there has been very little rain in this region. However, the rock formations were something else.

Rock face? We thought so.

Many of the rocks looked like human faces and it was easy to understand the Aboriginal Dreamtime stories. Sitting in this peaceful valley it was quite emotionally moving and we felt as one with nature.

Firework rocks

Galah leaving nest (Photo by OWO)

We discovered lots of different wildflowers in the area and back at camp we spotted a galah's nest in a tree across the creek.

By mid afternoon the temperature had dropped to about 10 degrees and we were very glad of the campfire as the evening got cooler. Nothing like a roaring campfire to cook on and to sit around when the nights get colder. After dinner of steak in red wine cooked in the camp oven, the OWO built up the fire but it was so cold we elected for an early night hoping the morro would bring sunshine and happiness!

TUESDAY

Cold but good walking weather!

Old Kolay Hut

The day dawned foggy, overcast, and quite miserable with no sign of the sun! After a POME bath (the Donkey shower was too difficult to work and we didn't have enough wood), we delighted in watching the adult galah's feeding their chicks, and we were visited by a couple of inquisitive emus. A number of vehicles drove along the track mid morning - obviously a "tag-a-long" group - and later in the morning a couple from Bright, Victoria, stopped by and had a chat with us. The misty fog lifted and the afternoon turned out warm and sunny. As the sun went down so did the temperature once again. Thankfully we had kept our wood for the fire in preference to using it in the Donkey.

WEDNESDAY

Mattera Track seen from vehicle

Today we had an interesting drive through the NP on our way to Ceduna. We elected to take the Mattera track to the Old Paney Homestead., stopping along the way to appreciate the scenery and history of this park. One of the attractions within the park is the Organ Pipes walk, one of many dramatic rock formations in the region. Unfortunately the walk was a little too difficult for Mrs OWO  on this occasion so we didn't get into that part of the park. Maybe next visit.

Yes, this is the right track

Old Homestead being restored

We did spend time at the old homestead which is being restored, and enjoyed another dose of history before driving out of the park towards Minnipa.

Wildflowers in the Gawler Ranges

Wild daisies in Gawler Ranges

Blue grey saltbush fields

Snow??? Nope, wildflowers!

View from our campsite (Photo by OWO)

Gawler NP Entry

Minnipa is a quaint little town with some beautiful gardens filled with spring flowers-- reminded us of the Carnival gardens at home ( is it really only three weeks since we left home?!?).

Collared Sparrowhawk  (OWO photo) and  Walking to the Falls

We had planned to 'free' camp at the Old Cohen School, west of Penong, but after three VERY cold nights at Kolay Hut (thanks to Mrs OWO forgetting to pack the doona!!!!), the OWO suggested a night in a motel might be appreciated. Yay for the OWO!-:)

And so we arrived at the Ceduna Motor Inn about 3pm, very grateful for a long hot shower and the opportunity to enjoy a lovely evening meal at the Foreshore Hotel watching a beautiful sunset over the ocean. Tomorrow we start our trek across the great Nullabor, and the Big Adventure will continue.

Variegated Wren (Photo by OWO)

Grey Butcherbird with scorpion (Photo by OWO)