Gorges, Ranges and Disappointments

Sunrise over Weetootla Gorge Range from Campsite

Weetootla Gorge --- up with the sun. Woken by the Corellas and other birds at 5am. Clear skies and already quite warm. Slept very warm overnight for the first time since leaving home. Looking forward to the day ahead with a feeling of 'Joie-de-Vivre ' after feeling so tired yesterday. However, that feeling soon changed when the winds started around 9.30am. It started with an occasional short gust but by midday it was strong enough to blow away anything loose around the tent, lifting the kitchen awning pegs out of the ground, and, of course, covering everything with dust -- fine, gritty, shitty, dust. With only the fly screen closed at the tent door it blew mountains of dust into the tent, covering everything inside. To exacerbate the situation we were now inundated with those nasty sticky bush flies and by now Mrs OWO was NOT a happy camper.



Recognising a potential meltdown from Mrs OWO, the OWO decided now would be a good time for a little distraction and suggested we go for a trek up into the Gorge. At least the wind was not so strong there. It was a lovely trek. With beautiful wildflowers, colourful rock formations, and cooling streams to sit by for awhile. On our return trek we met another couple who had just arrived at the campsite, and as usual we spent some time chatting. Whilst chatting with Jackie we discovered a common link - we both have RR MS -- diagnosed in 1999, she has had two knee replacements, still works 3 days a week as an ortho nurse, and has the same attitude as me -- positivity is the key to fighting this form of MS. We would meet with them again later in the evening at the campsite.
Returning to the campsite we found everything covered in a film of dust, things blown away, the wind still blowing and dust still swirling around. Everything felt gritty including our skin and clothes. This was to be our Big Adventure, but right about now I think my "spirit of adventure " just somehow dissipated into a flood of tears.

After a bit of a rant, and a short meltdown, I pulled myself together, found the dust pan and brush and set to clearing the dust from inside the tent. It was in EVERYTHING including the bedding. No easy task with the tent all closed up in 35 degree heat and dust still blowing around, it took two hours. Grumpy as hell, and hotter than the Gates of Hell I managed to get the inside clean enough to be liveable. There was a positive side to being in the tent -- no pesky flies, just dust.

Emu family on the track

There are always positives to be found - a Ying Yang attitude to everything. Despite all this, there are beautiful wildflowers to be found; there are  families of emus with cute baby chicks walking through the campsite; the drop loo is not smelly; and we met more lovely travellers. Tomorrow is another day!!!!

Red capped Robin Photo by Mrs OWO

Yes, another day dawned. The wind had continued on and off all night but had abated by 6am. The sun is once again shining in clear blue skies and my 'spirit of adventure ' is beginning to return. After a lovely hot shower at the Ranger station we are once again feeling clean and looking a little less feral. So how would this day unfold?

Entrance to Arkaroola

Approaching Arkaroola

After our reviving hot shower we motored out along the dirt track to Arkaroola. The OWO hoped to find a mechanic to look at the fuel pipe problem and to refuel ready for our onward journey tomorrow.
Arkaroola is quite a fascinating village - privately owned on the edge of the NP. There is a very informative display of photographs, rocks, flora, and fauna in the community hall. The village offers a variety of accommodation along with a lovely cafe, fuel, souvenirs, and some supplies. Not recommended for a weekly shop with 6 eggs costing $4.50!!!

Arkaroola Range

Whilst the OWO was chatting with the mechanic I took the opportunity to enjoy a great latte in the very comfortable visitors lounge away from the flies and dust. BONUS!  Mechanic confirmed problem was split filler hose but couldn't fix it so we added just 45 ltr of fuel and headed back to camp, taking a couple of interesting detours along the 4WD tracks .

The Gammon Ranges at Arkaroola

Stumpy tail lizard on track

Copper snake on track

Spotted a copper coloured snake on the road and some very strange, fat lizards. The OWO photographed both of course. Back at camp the wind had abated and the flies had increased, but the emu chicks were still strutting their stuff and the birds were singing. As Mother Nature provided us with another wonderful sunset over the gorge we began the pre-pack for moving on tomorrow. Next planned stop -- Aroona Camp in the Flinders Ranges -- or so we thought.

With the issues of the fuel the OWO was reluctant to take the planned back tracks into the Flinders so we trekked out the main stretch towards Leigh Creek. Some very interesting changes in the landscape along the way with rocky ridges and flat plains. We passed through the aboriginal village of Nepabunna Mission and stopped in at Copley before joining the Birdsville track and turning into Leigh Creek to purchase supplies.
Originally built to service the mining industry in the area, Leigh Creek is an outback town with great facilities and friendly locals. Having restocked ready for the next five days camping (including a DOZEN eggs at $1.89!!), we headed back out onto the Birdsville track, now a bitumen highway, for about 70kms. I could hear the sighs of delight from the OWO as he relaxed on this section of road. He seemed to be enjoying the pleasure of driving on the bitumen after 7 days travelling on dirt.

Flinders Ranges view

As we approached the turn off to the Flinders Ranges via Brachina Gorge the surrounding country looked much greener than in the Gammon Ranges.

Entrance to Brachina Gorge Section

 We stopped at the lookout (very, very windy) before heading down onto the Geological Track (4WD only recommended) and we rattled and rolled over the stoney track and dry creek beds for about 10 when disaster struck! Oh yes, our fortitude on this adventure was certainly being tested.

Road approach to Brachina Gorge

Fortitude and Courage!!!????