The Adventure Continues

Hello from beautiful Bornholm, west of Albany in WA. After five weeks travelling we are now settled for three weeks in a warm and cosy cottage with a lovely cat, a boisterous puppy, five chooks, and a family of  six ducklings! And plenty of free time to explore the Great Southern Region of WA. But before we share our local travels we'd best get back on the road and share some of the highlights (and one or two low lights) of this BIG adventure.

Week 1 --- Toowoomba to Innamincka (Queensland to South Australia)
Now for my overseas readers looking at our map, this may not seem very far, and for the "younger driver" it may be a two day journey. But for Two Rambling Retirees it took a week. My last post took us through Bollon and onto the Charlotte Plains Station -- before I ran out of internet allowance-- so we'll continue from there.



CHARLOTTE PLAINS STATION -- A 'Bore-ing' Time.  It is rare for us to camp somewhere that is not a National Park or "free" camp spot on our travels but this place was a wonderful camping area - although a bit expensive at $28 per night, unpowered campsite, the experience was worth it. As you will see from the photos this was quite a unique experience. Our decision to camp here for three nights instead of two was a little marred by the hoards of flies on the third day.

Bore Head Campsite

Drop Loo Mural - Dunny Doos

There was a great deal of  history surrounding this Station. Established in early 1800s it was originally named 'Turnworth' renamed in 1874. The bore that we enjoyed so much was sunk in 1892 to a depth of 1,842 feet. The Station was originally over 200,000 acres but is now only 72,000 acres. It is still run as a sheep and cattle station, and the original shearing shed is still standing.

The Baths

Campfire at Sunset - a must do when camping

Fine Dining by the Fire

Highlight of this camp spot --- the rejuvenating waters of the bore in the old bath tubs under the stars, glass of wine in hand, and nothing but the sound of running water.
Cost -- $28 per night, unpowered site at bore head, no amenities except drop loo

Another 'Rambler' - the Bulloo River

THARGOMINDAH -- locally known as Thargo is located on the Bulloo River and is the last town before the Qld/SA border on the way to Innamincka. We left Charlotte Plains with plans to camp overnight at Noccundra (which has a pub and not much else) but after four hours travelling we elected to stay overnight at the Thargo Van Park. Another rare event for us as we avoid van parks like the plague. However, this was quite a delightful place to stay. Recommended by travellers on WikiCamps, we took the chance it would be worthwhile stopping for one night. And it certainly was.

Bush-like setting - highly recommend 

This is a council owned park with very helpful and friendly managers. A bush-like campground with lots if space in the tent and camper trailer areas with lovely clean amenities. We enjoyed hot showers and washed some very dusty clothes.

Part of the Thargo River Walk - lovely at sunset

There was access to the local River Walk near where we set up camp and I really enjoyed a very quiet walk just before dusk.
Heaps of bird life, and hundreds of Corellas in the area -- the local sports oval looked like it was covered in snow when they settled there.

Snow in Thargo? No just 100s of Corellas

End of day beauty

Firewood was supplied at the park so we once again savoured the beauty of the clear starry sky sitting beside the campfire.

   

Highlights -- the River Walk, Corellas and a lovely hot shower
Cost -- $25 per night, unpowered site. Included lovely amenities with clean toilets, hot showers, wonderful camp kitchen, and a laundry ($3 per load). Free local information courtesy of Paul, included info about a natural product to keep the flies away!

Welcome to Innamincka - a desert outpost

Travelling again

INNAMINCKA -- Town Common and The Dig Tree.  Leaving the van park we filled with fuel at Thargo and had a bit of a fright when the attendant said 'Bit of a fuel leak mate?' And we saw a pool of diesel under the vehicle. The OWO said it was just a slight overfill and the angle of the vehicle at the time. We checked it on flat ground before we continued on our way - no sign of fuel leaking. Breathe a sigh of relief as this was not the time or place to have car troubles!

Bitumen all the way - almost

Qld-SA Border

Road to Inna - Qld style

The road from Thargo to the SA border was good travelling with an ever changing countryside. Crossing the border the last 17kms to Innamincka was a dirt road and very dusty. Apparently we learned that the Queensland government offered to seal this last section into Innamincka but the SA government didn't accept the offer - isn't politics a wonderful game!

Road to Inna - SA style

Map of Inna Reserve area

Innamincka was not what I had envisaged- it was very dry and rocky, and no sand dunes. Still very much an isolated "outpost" with a general store/service station, a few workers houses, and, of course, the obligatory pub.  As would be expected everything is very expensive here - with diesel fuel at $1.89/ltr, and a beer $9.50 glass.

Camping on the Town Common on Cooper Creek

This was a two night stopover. We camped on the town common on the banks of the Cooper Creek. A great spot, but once again we met with some very friendly flies. Seems the dust and flies will be with us for some time yet.

Regional Reserve - Pass needed - $10

First day we spent setting up camp but the second day we spent exploring the countryside. Our main aim was to visit the Dig Tree site, which by the way is on the Queensland side of the border. The OWO was keen to get off the major track so opted to drive the 4WD loop track. This was a distance of  71kms only 10kms more than the direct route. Hmmm, seems this is not  a tourist route as we didn't see another vehicle along the whole track, understandedly. It took THREE hours to do 65kms -- dirt, rocks, corrugations, and dry creek beds, but some of the most amazing landscapes and wildflowers.

Crusty ground cover

The Loop 4WD track to the Dig Tree

Oh it was bumpy and very rough in places, and there were more rattles (and dust!!) in the vehicle than when we started, but it was sooooo worth it.

"Fruits of the Desert" - nature's colour

The Dig Tree has a fascinating and interesting history and we had planned to stop for picnic lunch at this beautiful spot but the multitude of friendly flies forced us to move on.

Travelling back on the main road we detoured into the site of Burke's grave. This was a truly peaceful place full of birdlife and a lovely walk.

The face of the Dig Tree? Father Gnome? Oh, sorry, it's a thirsty OWO!

As has been common along our travels we met fellow travellers at the site and spent some time chatting before we returned to Innamincka.

After such a dusty, stressful drive the OWO deserved a beer, so into the pub we went. The barman, a Norwegian backpacker, kept us entertained with local stories and we met another Queenslander from the Gold Coast. Josephine had been to the races at Birdsville with friends and they were travelling home via the "scenic" route.

When we returned to our campsite we were surprised to find Jo and her companions camped in the site down from us. So, of course, we had to trot over with drinks in hand ( tea for me after two pints at the pub) and we enjoyed an evening of friendship and laughter with fellow travellers exchanging information about our planned travel routes on our BIG adventure.

Highlights -- The Dig Tree carvings, Burke's grave site, wildflowers and raptors, meeting fellow travellers.
Cost --- $5/night camping (honesty Box), $10 Regional Reserve Pass

Only a week into our adventure and we have already seen so much. As I climbed up into my comfy, but very cold, bed in the camper trailer, I marvelled at the wonders of this vast country with its constantly changing landscapes, and wondered at the strength and fortitude our pioneering forefathers had when they traversed such a strange land!