Easter at Cape Tribulation

Thursday, 24th March to Monday, 28th March inclusive -- Cape Tribulation Camping Ground

Sunrise at Cape Trib Campground

Our planned two nights here became five nights. Being Easter and school holidays the campground was fully booked from Friday through to Sunday with most campers departing on Monday morning. We prefer to 'free' camp when we travel but there are no 'free' camp spots in the Daintree so for this period we had to bite the bullet and stay amongst the crowd. But not a bad decision as it was very pleasant camped where one can go to sleep to the sound of the ocean!

Our time at Cape Trib was filled with adventurous activities interspersed with relax time. On our first day we enjoyed a walk to a freshwater swimming hole followed by lunch at Mason's cafe which is famous for its burgers - wild boar, camel, buffalo, kangaroo, emu and crocodile. Yes, the OWO did try one!

Croc, Roo, Camel or Emu?  Mmm...

Mason's swimming hole

Croc hunting -  snapping handbag!

After eating croc we then went seeking crocs with a local boat tour through the mangroves along Cooper Creek. This was an interesting expedition through some very pristine waters spotting three or four saltwater crocodiles.

Croc sighting signs everywhere

Mangroves in croc country

Day two was a 'taste and walk' day. First up was a stop at the local tropical fruit farm to sample their homemade ice cream. The orchards are open for the public to walk through and there are some very 'interesting' and exotic fruits grown here --- sapote, mangosteen, lychee, dragonfruit, Durien, jaboticaba, rambutan, soursop and too many others to remember. The ice cream was delicious.

After such a sweet delight we had to walk off those extra calories and spent the next two hours hiking through the rainforest and mangroves on the Marrdja Boardwalk. This is only 1.2kms in length but there was a lot to stop and see, including the beautiful water dragon that we photographed and some fascinating little crabs with bright red claws.

Red claw crab

Beautiful water dragon

Back at camp we finished our 'taste and walk' day with a superb wood-fired seafood pizza, a cold beer, and some interesting conversations with fellow campers.

Ocean Safari vessel for Mackay Reef

Day three was a tick on my bucket list --- a snorkelling trip on the Mackay reef. What a fabulous day. We were fitted out with stinger suits before boarding the rigid inflatable boat for a 25 minute fast ride to Mackay reef. I was very excited when I spotted a pod of dolphins swimming nearby. Snorkelling on the reef was awesome. We didn't spot any turtles but the coral colours were amazing and we saw rays, sea cucumbers, and giant clams. We also saw a little 'Nemo'. What an awesome day. The return trip was a fast, exhilarating ride and back on the beach we were able to stroll back to the campground.

Day four was a relax day after so much activity yesterday. Being Easter Day the camp owners had organised a day of family activities for the children including a hat parade, egg hunt, and movies. Many families met on the beach and enjoyed a game of beach cricket. With no children in tow we just relaxed and watched the activities around us. We did send special birthday wishes to our lovely grand daughter FREYA who was TEN today -- happy birthday beautiful girl!

Day five was an extra unplanned stopover. Most of the campers left today heading south back to the ferry. We chose to stay another night to avoid the main traffic departure. We had also not yet made a decision about continuing northwards. It was unlikely that we would, as all NPs are closed in the north until the end of May. However we still wanted to drive the Bloomfield track and today was the day.

Emmagen Creek crossing Bloomfield Track

Bloomfield Track

Without towing 'Ada' the Bloomfield track these days is quite a doddle although there are two extremely steep sections that tested our vehicle just a little, and a few rough creek crossings. It is a dirt road as far as Wujal Wujal then bitumen all the way to Cooktown.

We drove as far as the iconic Lions Den pub.

History of the Lions Den Hotel

Lion's Den Pub - end of Bloomfield Track

Art work inside pub - note all the writings on the wall

Bloomfield Falls

Bloomfield Falls in full flow

Where the ocean meets the rainforest

Just outside WW there is a track leading to the Bloomfield falls.

After parking the vehicle there is quite a scramble over rocks to get to the falls but it was so worth it. After all the rain the falls were in full flow and absolutely superb. No swimming here though, as there is a resident saltie in the area.

On our return trip we stopped in at Cape Tribulation beach in search of a sea eagle nest that the OWO had been told about. We did actually spot the eagle flying above us but no nest.

However, it was a lovely walk on the beach and along the boardwalk. A great way to finish our time at Cape Trib.

Beautiful Cape Tribulation beach

Beach walking at Cape Tribulation

Luxury at The Cove

St Patrick's Day -- Palm Cove (Thursday, 17th March)
It rained heavily and constantly all night, which of course meant everything had to be packed up very wet - including the RRs! Thank goodness for our Drizabones and red wellies.

Our travels today ended at Palm Cove where we will be accommodated in a fully self-contained unit on the beachfront for the next four nights.

Coffee plantation at Mareeba

We chose to drive via Mareeba and Kuranda instead of the Gillies Range, which is an extremely steep and winding road. Once again we passed through a variety of orchards -- avocados, bananas, mangoes, pawpaw, coffee, sugarcane, and tea.

View from Kuranda Range

Views along the Kuranda range gave us a wonderful panorama from Cairns to Port Douglas as we passed under the Skyrail gondolas that go from Cairns to Kuranda passing over the Barron Gorge falls. Unbelievably the rain stopped after we left Atherton and the sun shone all day.

Settling into the unit was a bit messy as we had to take things from Ada in stages. Main problem? We kept forgetting things and the OWO had to keep dragging Ada out from the parking bay for us to get access. But all good after an hour we were finally organised and settled into a lovely unit looking out over the ocean right across the road.

Beachfront views

Marlin Waters units

Tankers on the horizon

Already loving this place after two hours - totally relaxed and completely chilled out. Just perfect.

Rainbow lorikeet outside our unit

Rainbows in the paperbarks

Wednesday, 23rd March --- Palm Cove to The Daintree.
A full week since we arrived at Palm Cove and I have totally neglected entries in my daily journal since our arrival. We have really not explored this area as we were very content with just walking along the beach, swimming, and eating out at local cafes and restaurants. However I mustn't forget to mention the main reason for our time at Palm Cove was to attend the wedding of my niece, Kylie.

Kylie and Ian were married at Port Douglas on 19th March. It was a beautiful day and the service was very emotional for many of us, including the bride and groom. The reception was held at the Nu Nu restaurant at Palm Cove, hence our reason for staying at Palm Cove.

The beautiful chapel in Port Douglas

Congratulations Auntie Kye

Mr & Mrs - a quiet moment together

Is that ring still there?

Reflections in the chapel window

We had originally planned just three days at Palm Cove but then booked four nights. After the wedding weekend the OWO decided we should stay another two days. Hooray for the OWO -- it was a wonderful decision. With the wedding over we had some quality time with family members enjoying time together on the beach and in the unit.

Just a short stroll to the beach for a swim

Palm Cove jetty

Look at me Auntie Di - STROOOONG

Water Boys!

Water baby fun

Oops! Catch me daddy!

We left Palm Cove very reluctantly today around 10am and re-started our journey northwards.


Travelling the coast road was very pleasant although a little slow with some steep and winding sections.

Destination today?  -- Cape Tribulation Camping Ground. This section of our journey included a ferry crossing at the Daintree River before travelling through the Daintree NP and World Heritage Wilderness areas. Such a beautiful lush tropical area - 'where the rainforest meets the reef'.

Daintree River crossing

Welcome to Cape Trip and the Daintree

Cape Trib Camping ground

Our campground for the next five or six nights was a short walk from the beach and seemed the perfect place to spend Easter.

Exploring History, Nature, and Gourmet Delights

Elderslie House

Day One: History
Oh the joys of staying on the Tablelands -- still hot but very little humidity. Yesterday we left the coast at 34 degrees with 98% humidity arriving on the Tablelands to a wonderful cool 24 degrees with about 8% humidity. Much better for exploring we think!

This is such a beautiful region with so many contrasting elements of nature -- green rolling hills with fat dairy cattle wandering around, compete with sugar cane fields, banana, tea and coffee plantations, and pockets of rainforest with tropical palms and thick vegetation. In deep contrast are the great rocky outcrops almost barren in some places, where in the 1880s men traversed the countryside in search of copper, gold, and work.

Lookout near Millaa Millaa

Rolling hills

The road to Herberton

In the 1880s tin mining was the mainstay of this area of the Tablelands. Tin ore was discovered in Herberton by a group of miners led by John Newell. In September 1880 there were over 300 men living and working in this area but at the first Christmas gathering that same year there were only 27 women in attendance!!!

Herberton is the oldest town on the Tablelands, and its entire precinct is listed on the National Heritage Register, so this is where we spent our first day exploring the history of this region.

Newspaper office

The historic village of Herberton is a complex of over 60 buildings filled with memorabilia, antiques, and historical information. Some of the buildings have working displays, such as the blacksmith, printer, and tractor shed. There are magnificent displays in the chemist, camera shop, general store, watchmakers, and radio shop, and an exceptional collection of police memorabilia from around the world. There is a genuine pioneer slab hut built in 1870, and a fully restored rail ambulance. Some of the original buildings from the area have also been relocated to the Village precinct including the Herberton State School built in 1883; the Bakerville pub, which is now used as a tearooms and has a number of displays throughout the building, including a pipe collection; and Elderslie House, the magnificent 130 year old pioneer homestead originally owned by John Newell, and now fully restored to its former glory.

Bakerville pub, now Tearooms

Dispensary shelves

Dispensary

Dining in style

Sitting room at Elderslie House

Newspaper office - read the poster! Printed just for us!

We spent four hours exploring this beautiful Village and didn't cover it all. It would really need two days to fully explore and the good thing is that the operators realise that fact and your ticket price allows you the opportunity to return again within two days. The ticket also gives you entry to the Mining Museum which occupies the site of the first great tin discovery and where you can learn more about the  tin mining history in this region.

More rain and fog!!

Leaving Herberton we elected to travel back to Millaa Millaa via Atherton. Before leaving Atherton we were once again driving through fog and rain, but even the wet conditions couldn't dampen our enjoyment of this day of exploring.

Foggy Hills at Millaa Millaa

A rather damp campsite

Day Two: Nature
After so much history yesterday, today was back to nature -- waterfall day. It had rained again overnight and was still very misty when we set out along the waterfall circuit, just minutes from our campground. The circuit takes in three beautiful waterfalls. The first was my favourite -- Millaa Millaa Falls. Just a beautiful peaceful setting with a short nature walk near the falls. Here there were turtles and wildflowers.

Millaa Millaa Falls

Zillie Falls (taken by OWO)

The second, Zillie Falls, was almost impossible for me to trek into with fallen logs and a very slippery and difficult track to tackle. So the OWO left me beside a tree whilst he took my camera and photographed the falls further down the track -- don't you just love him!!! By the way, despite all the damp conditions we went through, this is the only place I was attacked by a leech!!!!

Ellinja Falls (taken by OWO)

The third stop on the circuit was Ellinjaa Falls. Very peaceful walk to the bottom of these Falls. It was here that we met an American couple that had sold up home and were travelling the country.

Leaving the Circuit we travelled along the Old Palmerston Highway to Ravenshoe - another tin mining area boasting the highest railway station and pub in Queensland. This area is also home to Windy Hill wind farm built in 2000 on an extinct volcano. There are 20 turbines generating enough electricity for about 3500 homes in the region.

Queensland's highest pub

Queensland's highest railway station

Wind turbines

Wood carving Ravenshoe

Close to Ravenshoe is the Millstream Falls and memorial park. These falls have the widest single drop fall in Australia. At the picnic area there is a memorial and history walk acknowledging the great military presence in this area during WWII.

Millstream park memorial

Millstream Falls (photo taken by OWO)

Another wonderful day exploring this beautiful region completed with a good meal at the local pub and chatting with the locals. Once again the fog and rain has set in. Tomorrow will be a less active day for all.

Day Three: Gourmet Delights
Looks like the rains are upon us again, as it rained all night and everything is water logged again -- thank goodness for my red wellies!! As predicted, today was a great day to be less active and maybe sample a few of the gourmet delights in this region.

First stop -- the Gallo Dairyland to sample local cheese and hand made chocolates. Mmmmmm!  We watched the girls having a fun messy time making chocolates but missed the processing of the Camembert cheese.

Chocolate making fun

Yummy cheeses and chocolates

Daisy the resident milker

After a delicious tasting and lunch we stopped by the Malanda Falls in the pouring rain and witnessed some old guy plunge into the freezing waterhole below the falls.

A brave old swimmer???

Malanda Falls in the rain

Malanda is a dairy and timber region and there are several excellent sculptures around the town depicting the regional history. There is also a cinema here that lays claim to being the longest continuously running cinema in Australia --- and it is still screening current movies!!!!

Majestic Theatre - still screening movies

A memorial to our service personnel

And so our time exploring this beautiful region comes to an end, but not before another lovely discovery at the Van park by Mrs OWO --  two Lumholtz tree kangaroos. The OWO was delighted - a rare photograph opportunity.

Lumholtz tree kangaroo - a rare photo (taken by the OWO)

Beautiful fungi at Millaa Millaa Falls

Mine workings at Herberton Village

Wild ginger flower at Millaa Millaa Falls

Camped before the rain

A wonderful way to end our time exploring this beautiful part of the Tablelands, and tomorrow we travel to Palm Cove for another stage of our adventures.